Balenciaga's Winter 24 collection, showcased at Les Invalides, Paris, presents a narrative journey through a blend of natural and electronic landscapes, portrayed across screens. While the setting and soundtrack by BFRND create an immersive experience, designer Demna's presentation raises profound questions about consumerism. 
Through clothes with tags still attached, pieces born from the layering of other garments, and items bought on eBay, the collection challenges societal norms around excess and materialism. 
Demna's intentional choice to leave tags attached and incorporate everyday items into high fashion pieces adds a layer of social commentary to the collection. It prompts reflection on why we accumulate more than we need and whether material possessions ever truly satisfy us.
The garments themselves interact with the body in unique ways, reinforcing the message of the collection's theme. "This collection is a journey through the aesthetic that has guided my evolution in fashion over the past ten years," explains Demna. And one only needs to think of the visual lexicon of the 2000s to understand. The collection cleverly incorporates elements from that era, such as chewing gums, necklaces full of charms, colorful keychains, plastic headbands, vests with bows, lace stockings, and Italian phrases like "Ciao Bello" on shirts and caps. Inscriptions like "Keep calm and wear this Balenciaga sweater" with crowns, along with eBay cult and tribal motifs, adorn the clothes, evoking nostalgia while highlighting contemporary issues. On the catwalks reigned the identification codes of Millennials, with that little something not so subversive that makes them desirable again. Moreover, the front row of the Balenciaga show featured an impressive lineup of celebrities, including Kim Kardashian, Serena Williams, and Ashley Graham. In summary, Balenciaga's Winter '24 marks a triumphant return to Demna's original vision, stripping back to less logo-heavy, 'quiet luxury' pieces. This collection, moving away from the brand's recent 'trash' aesthetic, focuses on wearable luxury, evidenced by elegant bags and 'Ciao Bella' caps. It's a refined, mature return to the roots that initially captivated the fashion world, proving that true style speaks softly but distinctly.

Par Zazie Zéphir